The dartless knit sloper and knit sleeve can be used to create fitted tee shirts, leotards, bodysuits, and other activewear styles sewn in stretchy knits. The back is completed first and then used to create the front. For women’s styles, part of the side bust dart is rotated into the armhole increasing the size of the front armhole. Raising the armhole and sloping the shoulder seam provides some shaping in the bust area. Fabric stretch will replace some of the shaping provided by the bust darts but dartless knit garments will not mold to the bustline quite the same as garments with bust darts. Wrinkles will may form in the armhole/sideseam area if the bust is large.
The knit sleeve has a shorter sleeve cap than the fitted classic sleeve. The cap height and cap ease are varied as desired. The underarm seam and hemline can be styled as desired.
The written instructions for drafting a dartless knit sloper and sleeve can be found on our Wiki at the links below. You can also watch the video posted on our YouTube channel.
Wild Ginger Software is pleased to announce that we will be publishing a new book on Pants: Fitting, Design, and Construction. Karen and I teamed up with Judy Barlup of Unique Techniques to co-author this book. You can view details about the book including the table of contents and an excerpt on our website at the link below.
In addition to a free pants drafting software, we are including our Style Match program to help you determine the most flattering pant styles for your body shape. The book will retail for $34.95 and will begin shipping early February 2016. Pre-order the book and get it for $24.95.
Drafting a French dart by rotating the side bust dart to the hipline below the waist is quite easy in the PatternMaster Pattern Editor or Cameo’s Pattern Design module. The written instructions are below. You can also watch the video posted on our YouTube channel.
Drafting a French Dart
Draft and save a classic blouse or sheath with the side bust dart and the seam allowances set to 0.
Open the patterns in Pattern Editor or Pattern Design.
Select and delete the dart ends.
Use the Move Point (MP) tool to move the dart point to the bust point.
Select and delete the bust circle.
Locate a point on the sideseam where you wish to move the dart.
Choose Dart Transfer (DT) from the Design menu.
SNAP to the point placed on the sideseam.
SNAP to the dart point.
SNAP to the end point of one dart leg.
SNAP to the end point of the other dart leg.
Select the objects as shown.
Enter 100% for the amount to transfer.
Choose Clockwise and press Apply.
Draw a line or arcs for the dart legs.
Add the seam allowances using the Offset (OF) and Intersect (IN) tools.
Most paper sewing patterns provide an estimate of the amount of yardage needed to complete the project. All Wild Ginger programs come with a Yardage Calculator that let’s you easily determine the exact amount of fabric you need for your style. What do you do when you are away from your computer, do not have the pattern handy, or want to purchase fabric that is a different width than the one called for by the pattern? With a few body measurements and the handy charts below, you can calculate a reasonably accurate yardage estimate for most any garment pattern.
Estimating fabric yardage can be a bit scary but it is really quite easy. Before you leave the house, take a few key body measurements and keep them with you when you shop. Print out and fill in the blank chart below. The measurements you will need are as follows:
Center Back at Neck to Hip Depth (blouse length)
Center Back at Neck to Knee Depth (dress length)
Center Back at Neck to Floor (long dress length)
Waist to Knee Depth (skirt/shorts length)
Waist to Floor (pant length)
Chest Circumference (largest circumference above the waist)
Hip Circumference (largest circumference below the waist)
I sat down to watch Sew It All on my local PBS station this morning and was pleased to find an episode on how to sew undies with DIY techniques. I have been making my own lingerie, bras, and panties for many years. It is really not as difficult as you might imagine and I thought I was pretty good at it but I actually learned several very clever techniques from guest Monica Bravo of Bravo Bella Custom Bras.
Some of her great techniques included:
the pin trace technique for tracing your favorite undies pattern – this was a new and brilliant technique for me
the “pin” stitch technique to prevent fabric slippage when sewing
the clever “hot dog in a bun” technique for adding a crotch panel to your undies
Digitizing or tracing patterns in Cameo Pattern Design is a fairly simple process that can produce extremely accurate patterns. You will need a digital camera or smart phone with a camera to photograph your paper patterns.
Adapting clothing for individuals with limited mobility, injuries, or those confined to wheelchairs can be challenging. Wild Ginger Software’s PatternMaster programs provide many options for drafting patterns for limited mobility, injury or physical disability.
Limited Mobility or Injury
For people with limited mobility or injuries, dressing can be difficult and painful. Following are suggested pattern changes, style options, and fit and design settings to make dressing easier.
Darts – Ugh! Nobody seems to like them. When I first started sewing, at the age of five, I made “dresses” for my Barbie dolls. They consisted of a rectangle of fabric with a holes cut for the head and arms.
To show off Barbie’s figure, I needed to add darts. But, at the time I knew nothing about darts.
Color blocking has long been a popular design technique and a great creative outlet. When done thoughtfully in garments it can hide figure flaws and be very slimming. Color blocking is also a great way to use scraps left over from other projects and even recycle worn out garments such as tee shirts and jeans, etc.
Perhaps one of the most famous examples of a color blocked garment is the Mondrian-inspired dress created by Yves St. Laurent in 1965. This deceptively simple dress incorporates the darts and waistline shaping in the seams of the color blocks.